January 20, 2008
Ahhh it is good to be back! Last night my wife and I returned from our trip to Brazil, where we spent the holidays with her family. We had such a great time! I got to swim with tropical fish, took a surfing lesson and ate lots of great food. Still there is no place like home.
As my wife and I neared the Walla Walla Valley I politely asked if we could stop off at the winery so I could check on a few things. Aline could tell I was anxious to see how the wines had changed while we were away. With her permission I took a short cut through College place to Tertulia Cellars.
First thing I noticed when we pulled up was the new production facility going up behind the case goods and barrel-room.
It was dark but we took a quick peek. I knew how large it was going to be on paper but you never have a real feel for it until you walk around the space. I will simply say I can’t wait to make wine in there when it is finished in the next few months.
After a quick look around the outside we stepped into the winery. Without pause I grabbed my wine thief and a glass and stepped into the cellar. The first wines I wanted to try were the 2007 Bordeaux varietals from the Horse Heaven Hills. My good friend Dick Beightol grows these grapes from his vineyard Phinny Hill. Each year we try new techniques and tinker with the vines to get the very best out of them. The first sip and smell of the Cabernet Sauvignon brought a smile to my face. Wow this is a big wine, dense and concentrated. It fills the mouth from end to end and has a wonderful mouthfeel. I quickly tried the Cab from the second lot of wine from Phinny Hill. It’s slightly more delicate but so elegant and with a complex nose. The Merlot was the next wine I tried and it was just as pleasing as the Cabernet Sauvignon. I was equally impressed with the Malbec and Petite Verdot, not to mention the Carmenere. To put it lightly I am very excited about this vintage. It shows all our efforts in the vineyard and winery have paid off. It is a good thing all these wines were put in French oak and we increased the percentage of new oak as well, wines of this quality can handle new oak without losing its fruit character.
I won’t neglect to mention how our other wines are progressing. The 2007 Viognier could be the best we have made yet. Things were just right in the vineyard and we acquired a new piece of equipment to control the temperature of fermentation. The result is a balanced wine with complex aromatics. The Syrah from Les Collines came in early this year. It is more concentrated this year, but sleek and beautiful. I think I can say this is a sexy wine without getting into too much trouble. The Pepper Bridge Vineyard Merlot is very elegant with notes of cassis and cherries. I think a touch of Cabernet will round it out perfectly.
Enough said about the 2007 wines, they are still babies and I shouldn’t get too far ahead of myself, after all, many of the 2006 wines are still in barrel. We will bottle them in April after 18 months in oak. They are maturing beautifully. Already in bottle are the Tempranillo and Syrah. The 2006 Les Collines Syrah will be released in May for spring release weekend, and the 2006 Tempranillo will be released next month.
I don’t feel nervous about releasing the Tempranillo, when so many of our 2006 wines are still in barrel. A wine speaks to you and tells you when it is ready to be bottled and enjoyed. Such was the case with this wine. From the very beginning I have been impressed with how soft and smooth it has become. I couldn’t bear to mask the wine’s character with too much oak. So after ten months in barrel it went to bottle, where it stayed for five months before release. Where many of our wines are defined by their fruit character, our Tempranillo is on the Earthy side. Beautiful aromas of earth, sweet herbs, violets and smoked game progress into a soft lingering smooth finish. We only produced 62 cases of 2006 Tempranillo and it seems to be going fast. We haven’t even released the wine and half of it is already spoken for with our Wine Club.
I am glad our wines are progressing so well into the New Year. After my vacation I feel refreshed and rejuvenated. I am ready to rack, bottle and even start thinking about the 2008 vintage.
I hope everyone had a wonderful new year. May this year be your best yet and pale in comparison to those to come.
Ryan Raber
Tertulia Cellars
Winemaker
Reader Comments